StringJunky

Hypothetically, say there was a foreign billionaire interested in thwarting the efforts regarding the CDC research, would they be allowed to fund the organisation in those areas the republican administration and NRA are trying to supress?

When sanding to a finish, stand by the work sideways and push along the grain, with a view to raking out the grain, in the same motion and posture you use a hand plane. Don't stand fully facing the work because you can only sand in an arc that way and will scratch across the grain. which reduces the clarity of the grain relief when you put finish on

Red oak sees to be slightly softer and seems to have a warmer hue than white oak. Nice.

I learnt as well. If you want to not do it that way, this is useful info... might take a read or two to sink but it makes sense.

Yes, It's hard on everything. Buy your pieces as clean as you can afford.I wouldn't cheap out and get rougher stuff with a view to sorting it out. If you want the medullary rays it needs to be quartersawn. Here's a sample page on the type of cuts: https://www.thefurnituremarket.co.uk/what-is-a-medullary-ray-in-oak-furniture The other thing to think about is will you be filling it for a shiny finish or going for the rustic look where the grain is in relief; farmouse table style. Oak is open-pored compared to other woods. TBH, I think, unless you are going for the rustic look, it's going to be very hard work, for you and your equipment. It's my favourite looking wood but it takes muscle and patience to work with. Oak is more akin to working with metal than wood. White oak is 30% harder than black walnut. Notice that cherry is one below walnut and cherry is spot-on to hand sand -walnut should be as well. If you are going for the burr walnut look, rather than straight-grain, you have to sand with the grain with each little section... this is a very patient job as well. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Janka_hardness_test

Oak is a lot harder on your stamina to finish. I used to sand the stuff by hand as one of my past jobs. Have plenty of aluminium oxide paper. Cherry is the nicest to work with. I used to get a beautiful lustre just sanding with 120.

It looks like they've advanced from yours. I've just spotted one that does 2 inch ones. That's more than enough for me. It's 123 pounds, so that will probably make more economic sense for me over a pneumatic one.

I've just started looking at them too. Trying to weigh up if an electric one will do me, if they can deliver up to 1.5inch brads. I've ordered a hakimiwashi saw and a ryoba saw. I want to have a few woodworking projects going this year. Got to get off the computer a bit more as Spring draws nearer.

Bitcoin is made from the same material that the king's new clothes are made from.

Also, i would say if you have views that are way off-centre in terms of the general membership you can expect more. it doesn't make those people necessarily right, it's just their opinion. If you are firm and honest about your opinions take the flak. I kind of know what's going to rattle people but I still post because non-scientific discussions are often necessarily adversarial and emotive. I counter what are, I think, unjustified negatives as well. Don't attach too much weight to positive rep as they are often given for the most frivolous of reasons and I do too.

You could pm a mod to see if their is a vendetta going on by a single poster.

Talk about Pot calling Kettle. Women; just can't keep their hands to themselves.

@iNow You might be interested in a plunging track saw for cutting boards. Here's a video about them: You can knock a support frame up to saw on, like the table top in the video, and lay it down on the floor and then stack it up against a wall when you aren't using it. I don't have space for a work bench so portability is important to me. You can cut sections out in the middle of boards because it's plunging as well... just hand saw the corners I've just bought a fairly simple one with 1m track. It doesn't do angles but can set depth. It was £65($75) delivered... bargain! This one has 30mm cut depth and light enough to be used one handed. Ideally, you want a track length equal to the standard width of boards; 4ft or 1400mm here. I have a couple of little projects involving cutting up boards and this seems a good cost-friendly, portable solution for a hobbyist. This is my saw: http://www.rutlands.co.uk/sp+woodworking-power-tools-machinery-plunge-saws-plunge-cut-saw-with-1m-track-rutlands+xt3510

Gary Numan - Down in The Park Live

There's a few of us silvery ones here so you won't be alone. I'm a bit too young for Gemini missions but remember Apollo. Welcome to the forum.

Hand skills are always useful for in situ modifications.

Scorpions - Always Somewhere When The Smoke is Going Down

A Japanese Kiridashi knife is designed for that job. It is composed of a hard thin plate, which holds the sharp edge, laminated to a softer main section for strength. A jack plane or bigger will get across the undulations on longer pieces. Also, look into Japanese pullsaws as well because they make hand sawing effortless with extremely clean edges. By pulling the thin blade always stays rigid in the cutting direction and the kerf is much thinner than with a push saw. I'm a big fan of Japanese tools. Here's an article on them. The Shark saws mentioned are great and I'm SO glad I just found them again just now after ages trying to remember the name. https://www.infinitytools.com/blog/2016/05/24/introducing-shark-and-japanese-style-pull-saws/

Conquest of Paradise - Vangelis

Yes, I''ve watched it a few times too. He's got some serious nerves and talent to behave the way he does and do that stuff that as well. Edit: Cocked up. Replying to Koti. Yes, there is a hippy element in his routine.

Reggie Watts disorients you in the most entertaining way.

Yes, having knowledge and being able to usefully play with it are two different things.