Jump to content

Computer shut down.. won't turn on..


losfomot

Recommended Posts

I just bought a new motherboard and cpu. The computer store I bought it from installed the cpu into the MB and tested the whole thing before I picked it up. I brought it home and installed the new MB/CPU into my computer. At first it wouldn't power up at all, and it took me a while to figure out that they had installed a (jumper?) for 5+ standby power. I believe tis should have worked anyway, but didn't. When I switched the jumper to 5+ (no standby) the computer powered up, bringing me to a 'Windows did not load' screen. At this point I probably should have booted up with the motherboard cd that came w the MB but I didn't. Instead I booted up with the Windows XP cd and was about to re-install Windows when my computer just suddenly shut off. Nothing I do will turn it back on again. I should mention here that I did notice a burning smell while the computer was running, but I figured it was the thermal grease getting hot for the first time.

 

So that is where I am at right now. I figure that my cpu must have gotten too hot and automatically shut down, but how do I reset it so that I can try again? I unplugged the computer and plugged it aback in, but it still won't turn on. Can anyone help me here? Do you think I am right and the cpu overheated or could it be something else?

 

BTW it's a 2.4 Ghz CELERON cpu and an ASROCK MB

 

Thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

MB normaly is equal to megabytes, i dont like it the way you used it to represent motherboard, although i accept that your abbr. is valid, just thought that it may confuse others as MB is a very common acronym for megabytes.

 

anyway, it sounds to me like a component has burnt out, maybe an overrated power supply or something... did you check the power rating of each component before you used it? is is surge protected?

 

it was probably totaly irrelavant to the fact you were installing XP when it happened!

 

it is possible that something over heated but more likely something burn or that the lead from a hot component has melted.

 

try checking the fuse for the computer, this will be located inside the main power box, but beware, opening that power box will ruin any guarantee on it and if this computer isnt working and you may return it, think about opening that box before you do it.

 

if a component or something did melt due to overheating the fuse should have gone too, probably the wrong power rating... again, is everything the correct power rating?

 

normally when a computer over heats it automatically resets itself when it cools down again, but that could vary for different computers, there should be some documentation somewhere about it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The mobo cd is useless until you've installed windows anyway, you did the right thing in that regard.

 

It obviously seems like something burnt out, which implies a lack of cooling somewhere, most likely on one of:

 

the processor (not enough/any heat conducting paste on the heatsink? fan not working? insufficiently good heatsink?)

the northbridge (although that should have just shut things down)

the graphics card (likewise)

the psu (could be)

 

I'm surprised that it would get that far, though; in my experience of building computers (which has all been with AMD chips) computers shut down before they overheat, but I'm not sure how intel does it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

intel varies with each computer and the user set up, i know for me with an intel p4 chip and my setup that if the computer reaches a certain temp it will just shut down and not turn on until it has cooled down... but as i set those options a long time back i do not know what the default is.

 

i tend to think that if it was a heat-shutdown it should be back up and running now, which made me think that either the fuse has gone or a component has gone (a powersurge is a possible reason for over heat... JaKiri pointed out the more traditional overheating methods.)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I don't think it has anything to do with the mobo, because my old mobo won't work either. It seems like it must be my power supply, but I took the case off and the fuse looks fine. Also, both mobos do the same thing when I switch the power on... the heat sink fan jumps, like it received power for a tenth of a second.

 

How do I find out the power rating of my 'components'?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

One possibility is that it's not the fuse but the power supply itself, I've had circuits burn out in them, so power gets to one part of the Mobo but not others.

 

Usually if there is an actual problem with the tranny, then the first thing that won't work is the transformer fan itself. Is that fan working?

 

Since the problem occurs with both Mobos, I would think that a new transformer is in order. (Even if this doesn't solve the problem, it's always good to have a spare.)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

the power rating of the components should be documented somewhere, i mean like if it is 240V or 200V or 12V and whether it is AC or DC makes a big difference too.

 

thing when I switch the power on... the heat sink fan jumps, like it received power for a tenth of a second.

 

that quote is both weird and important. it tells us that there is a power source and it is receiving power, so there's no clean break in the circuit - it could just be a slight break in the circuit which moves and breaks the circuit when a current is passed through it.

 

other than that, i think that quote is still a big clue however is strange, i'll have to think about what could be causing it (that is additional things to what has already been suggested).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

the power rating of the components should be documented somewhere, i mean like if it is 240V or 200V or 12V and whether it is AC or DC makes a big difference too.

 

The closest thing I could find to a power rating in the book that came with the motherboard is the jumper settings which give the choice of +5V or +5VSB. Both of these are listed in the power output of my power supply. The Power Supply Unit (PSU?) has an input of either 115V or 230V. Because I live in Canada, it is 115V. The manual for the mobo doesn't tell me a hell of a lot, only 15 pages of it are in English.

 

A friend dropped off another PSU for me to try out. I will try it tonight when I get home and report back here.

 

Crossing my fingers.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

im rereading your original post and this is the same motherboard, so surely there is some kinda warranty or guarantee and you should take this back to the shop and get it repaired before you invalidate the guarantee?

 

PSU can be used to refer to the power supply unit.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

im rereading your original post and this is the same motherboard' date=' so surely there is some kinda warranty or guarantee and you should take this back to the shop and get it repaired before you invalidate the guarantee?

 

PSU can be used to refer to the power supply unit.[/quote']

 

If this second PSU doesn't work then I will bring the whole computer to the store where I bought the motherboard and see if they can get it going. I don't see how anything I'm doing could invalidate the warranty.

 

I would have gone back to the store as soon as I ran into a problem if the store wasn't an hours drive from my house. I work during the week so I'll have to wait until Saturday. I am wary of calling them for support because they are asian and don't speak great english, and I had a hard time communicating with them in person, never mind over the phone.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

personaly, I wouldn`t touch it at all, send it back, get a refund, and shop elsewhere :)

 

yes, i often have the temptation just to fix electronic items myself (such as computers and r/c cars) but at the same time you MUST remember that these are expensive items and normally fixing it involves voids the warranty... for example opening the PSU can void the warrant (VTW... its quicker to type!), even though the fuse is inside the PSU openeing mine would VTW... changing or opening or replacing will normally VTW... whilst it may seem simple and easier and more exciting fixing it yourself remember its value and the warranty!

 

yes this is similar to what YT said, i am merely expanding and re-stressing the importance of it.

 

(by the way; YT, nice sig!)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well, I tried the new PSU and low and behold, the new motherboard started right up. Ran for 3 or 4 minutes like nothing was wrong and then, just like that, the whole thing just shut down (like with the first PSU). And now it won't turn on again. It's like this new motherboard is frying my power supply units. Now, like the last one, all I get when I turn on the computer is the heatsink fan gives a little jump. (The PSU fan also, I believe). I will try taking the whole thing to the shop on Saturday (if its not snowing), in the meantime, if anyone as any ideas what's happening here....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

maybe there is a short circuit somewhere which is burning out the PSU... i think when you said: "It's like this new motherboard is frying my power supply units." it was a reasonable and possible cause.

 

as it was all new its harder to suggest what it was and is very hard to diagnose especially when the computer is even working!

 

it is possible the BIOS is corrupt... try the PSU in a nother computer, or just try and get a power out of them, this will allow us to see if the computer isnt responding to the PSU or if the PSU isnt giving out power any more.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

as it was all new its harder to suggest what it was and is very hard to diagnose especially when the computer is even working!

 

it is possible the BIOS is corrupt... try the PSU in a nother computer' date=' or just try and get a power out of them, this will allow us to see if the computer isnt responding to the PSU or if the PSU isnt giving out power any more.[/quote']

 

Neither PSU was 'new'. The first PSU was the one that was running my old motherboard. The second PSU I got from a friend who has a lot of computer parts kicking around. The only 'new' items are the CPU and motherboard.

 

Like I mentioned earlier, after being 'fried', neither PSU will work evenwith my old motherboard, which was working fine before. Even with the old motherboard, all I get now is a fan 'twitch' when I turn the power on. Both PSUs were around 300W. I am wondering if this new motherboard and CPU require more than that. I don't want to go and buy a 500W PSU if its just going to fry like the other 2.

 

Honestly, I wish the mobo and CPU I bought came with more documentation. A cd came with the motherboard and the full manual is supposed to be on it, but I need a computer to run it. The one I have here at work is a mac.

 

Macs are so much simpler.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

your work mac is only simpler because it is working!

 

if you plugged in the PSU do you get any power out of it?

 

if you do and the comp still dont work then you know the comps getting power but not working either it needs more power or there's a fault in the electronics.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I went to the local computer store last night (not where I bought the mobo and CPU) and the guy there showed me how to test my PSU. I went home and tested them both, and they both don't work. Somehow my mobo has fried my PSUs. The guy at the computer store says he has never heard of that happening. PSUs frying mobos, yes... but not the other way around.

Anyway, I am definitely going to take this damn thing back.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

intel varies with each computer and the user set up, i know for me with an intel p4 chip and my setup that if the computer reaches a certain temp it will just shut down and not turn on until it has cooled down... but as i set those options a long time back i do not know what the default is.

 

Just for the record, the newer P4s will downclock themselves when they sense they're getting too hot. If you look on Tom's Hardware Guide you can download a video of what happens when they take the heatsinks off of various processors.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

In case anyone wanted to know what the problem was...

 

I took the whole computer back to the store where I bought the mobo and CPU and explained that I had fried 2 PSUs trying to use the damn thing. First they fried one of their own (I guess they didn't believe me) and then he found the problem (very quickly, I might add) apparantly I had hooked up an extra USB port to the mobo that was old. I hooked it up to the right spot, and the connector fit perfectly, but the newer USB port connectors have power wires in different places and that is what was shorting out the PSU.

 

You would think that if they were going to change the wiring, they would change the entire connector so that something like this wouldn't happen.

 

Anyway, they charged me $25 (Canadian) for a new(?) 400W PSU, threw away the USB port (that I didn't really need anyway, as there are already 2 ports built in to the mobo) and everything is now running great.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

the funny thing is that its always something that the user does that makes the difference!

 

you should have mentioned it, i knew you had changed the mobo/CPU, but assumed nothing else had changed between when it worked in shop and when it didnt work at home.

 

thanks for telling us though, its interesting to know.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.