Hi.

I may have asked this looong time ago before, but, trying again...

 

What liquid chemical preparation would be electrically conductive after drying ?

 

Other than commercial silver inks or powdered graphite in a binder. Feel like binders insulate the conductive 'dust' particles, would prefer something different.

 

Elastomeric contacts as in a remote control are coated with a compound that rubs off with time. A soft pencil deposits a layer of conductive graphite on them as to extend its life somewhat, but am after something more durable.

Suggestions, please ?

Hi.

I may have asked this looong time ago before, but, trying again...

 

What liquid chemical preparation would be electrically conductive after drying ?

 

Other than commercial silver inks or powdered graphite in a binder. Feel like binders insulate the conductive 'dust' particles, would prefer something different.

 

Elastomeric contacts as in a remote control are coated with a compound that rubs off with time. A soft pencil deposits a layer of conductive graphite on them as to extend its life somewhat, but am after something more durable.

Suggestions, please ?

 

Would gilding it work? You can purchase actual gold leaf (or silver or copper...but gold's best for your purposes) at craft and hobby stores, cut it to size, and fit it to the surface you wish. I'd suggest against the metal paints, as they don't (at least standardly) contain any real quantity of the metal they claim to be, and you'll have much more trouble with the binders in those anyway.

Excellent alternative, thanks !

I expect you have read this link about printing electronic circuits :- http://www.newscientist.com/article/dn11632-modified-ink-printer-churns-out-electronic-circuits.html

Edited September 30, 201114 yr by TonyMcC

Not that particular article; but thought of the reverse 15 years ago.

Printing the circuit image on a copper layered board with a vulgar printer using the ink as to mask the etching process. I even tried; as I had 8 1/2" x 11" copper foil. Printed on if with a plain printer/plain ink to see if I could glue it later to fiberglass board and etch. The vulgar ink did not bond to copper. I suspect the copper was too great of a heat sink for the ink to set by the fuser.

Getting into formulating some ink to refill a cartridge with, that would not clog the nozzles was over my head.

Finally found, resurrected this post to let know if someone has interest.

Thanks.

 

----> http://jordanbunker.com/archives/41

https://sites.google.com/site/thinkinkfactory123, the conductive ink they supply is 2 ohms per square, I met these guys at UK maker fair, they are soon to release an ink with 0.00001 ohms per square, key is special Sri Lankan graphite, looks and works amazingly well : )