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chilled_fluorine

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Everything posted by chilled_fluorine

  1. John, let's just agree that you can never be too careful. You have to take some risks in life, but I agree this one is not absolutely necessary. Are you per chance one of those people who is to afraid to cross the street, because they "might" get hit by a car Phi, I thought you might say something about negligence. All though I've only gone to one, it seems like our junkyard is open to scrappers and the general public, and the man in charge let's me have whatever I want, no payment required. They are a bit cluttered, and just want to get rid of all that stuff. I never even considered they would make you pay for all that "garbage". Sounds like I have things luckier than most.
  2. I suppose I could find one, but I wouldn't know where to start. With a little bit of research, I'm sure it would be easy enough. I've heard there are websites out there for finding them. May I ask what state that is? Laws about potentially dangerous chems. are notoriously less strict here than in other parts of the usa. Couldn't I just sign one of their fancy waivers that say you can't sue them? To get into regular junkyards here, they make you sign one anyways. And in case anyone was going to ask, I don't want to make a bomb. If you're trying to imply I don't know how to handle azides, you're wrong. If you actually want me to try that, that's really morbid, and I don't think there's been an azide poisoning in my state since the 90's.
  3. Wow, don't you think that's a little harsh?
  4. "While your driving"... And what, exactly, starts the car moving in the first place?Any power gained from the moving air will make the car proportionally harder to move, plus energy "lost" through inefficiencies. Your idea is therefore worse than useless... No hard feelings though, right?
  5. I'm going to assume that superconductors are out of the question, right? If it doesn't need to be demagnetized immediately, you could just use iron, and heat it to its curie temperature afterwards. Try 300 C. I'm pretty sure it's less though.
  6. Recently, I lent a friend my small butane torch, it's good for soldering and stuff. It's burns pretty much invisibly during the day, at night with a very pale blue. Anyways, he thought he had put it out, but he hadn't, and he got burned pretty bad. Is there anything I can do to pretty much permanently color the flame? I have access to lots of salts, KCl, NaCl, NaF, KF, even CsF and others. Would making a salt solution, dipping the head of the torch in, and allowing to dry work? How vividly would it color the flame? That is the important part. I can also get my hands on strontium and barium nitrate, as well as their chlorides. And yes, I know fluorides are dangerous, I like to stick to chlorides as much as I can.Thanks everyone, this forum is great.
  7. Of course, that's what rubber gloves, safety goggles, and a respirator are for, right?
  8. If a tree falls in the woods, but nobody is there to hear it, does it make a sound?Just because people are ignorant of something does not mean something is not there.
  9. This brings back memories of memorizing 80 digits of pi with friends...Swansont said it all.
  10. Last time I checked, sodium azide was the "active" ingredient in car airbags. Synthesis is dangerous, and uses hard to obtain ingredients (sodium metal, hydrazoic acid). Shouldn't we be able to go down to the car junkyard, cut open a few airbags, and get ourselves a nice pile of sodium azide? Controlled thermal decomposition could yield quite a bit of powdered sodium, and some nitrogen gas. I think anyone reading this knows what they would do with a pile of powdered sodium My questions for you: How would I go about doing this "safely"? What tools would I need to get at the good stuff? How do I find a local car junkyard?
  11. Separating KCl and NaCl by exploiting solubility differences is completely plausible, why wouldn't it work?My browser is being really stubborn right now, so I can't watch the video. You'd need to post a link for me to say anything for sure.
  12. Wow, I just rated myself 1 star while trying to post a new topic. I'm such a noob.
  13. I was thinking about galvanic corrosion recently, and I got an idea. If you can increase the reacting surface area of a piece of iron by many times, you should be able to make it corrode very quickly, maybe even enough to boil water. You could start out with copper foil, or a foil of any metal lower than iron on the reactivity series. Get some trash cans or other large containers. Some copper wire, rubber tubing, gravel, water, and optionally salt will be needed as well. Cut out a lot (I'm really not exactly sure) of sheets of copper foil that will fit into your container. Take one sheet, and place it flat on the bottom of the container. Take a small handful of clean gravel, and place it on the middle of the foil sheet, then try to spread it evenly across it. Do not use too much gravel! Take a small piece of copper wire, just longer than the gravel layer is thick, and attach it to the foil. No soldering. Tie it on, get creative. Put another layer of foil on top of the gravel. Attach the wire to the second sheet, so both sheets are connected. Do everything you did for the last layer. Keep it up until the can is full. Once you reach the top, add an extra long piece of wire to the exposed foil, maybe 2 or 3 meters. Fill the whole thing up with water. The salt will make corrosion much faster, so if you have that, add enough to make at least a 5% solution. The more the merrier, right? Get a small, .5-1 liter container, and fill it up with some of your saltwater. Keep it level in height with the top of the trash can, Very Important. Use the rubber tubing to connect the two containers. Make sure that the tube fills with water, this will allow ions to flow in the solution. Take any piece of iron, pure is better, but steel will work. Avoid galvanized and stainless. The smaller the piece is, the more concentrated the heat will be, don't use anything too big. Hook the iron up to the long wire, and stick it in the second container.Corrosion should begin almost immediately. Add some vinegar if you want. You could wire up multiple cells to make things faster. Here is an idea/diagramI know, it looks like it was drawn by a kindergartener. But I did it in paint, and I'm tired.Tell me what you think, if you try it tell me how it works for you.
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