so what if i seperate the anode and cathode, like, place a piece of rubber or plastic between them for the length of the bottle, and then diverted the hydrogen to a seperate container. since the OH- would be attracted to the anode, the H+ would bubble near the cathode and be diverted, however, could i do this just by blocking off the two above the water? since the two gasses wouldnt be able to reach the other side? also, in electrolysis, how much pressure is made by the gasses, mainly hydrogen, would it fill a deflated balloon? assuming we're at sea level?

ok, point at a time here

yes that`s exactly the way to keep them both seperate, don`t forget that you`ll still require a conductive path below the electrode level though, else it just wont work

 

as for pressure, that`s inpossible to determine without seeing and testing the apparatus you intend using, sorry but it`s true

don`t use party balloons either, Condomes are better, they take less pressure to expand, and have less material to catch fire IF there`s an accident.

 

bubble the chlorine through some water and bicarb soln also, it`ll render it inert mostly

condoms...thanks man, thats one i havent thought of!

store clerk~condoms huh?

me~yeah, im doing an experiment for science class...

lol

you can get them for free from most family planning clinics or General Health clinics that deal with prostitutes and druggies.

even some classroom Sex-education lessons will give them away for free, same as the toothpaste on dental week

hehehe, good to know...

so can you explain to me the coloration in the salt solution? it was dark green on top, except around the cathode, which was strange, because i'd figure that even though only half the amount of oxygen as hydrogen is produced in the same time, it would still bubble, which it didnt. anyway, so it was dark green except around the cathode, and then it was yellow underneath that, and then it was crystal clear on the bottom. which, it all started as a fuzzy mix due to a large quantity of NaCl. can you please explain what these colors were?

dark green implies Copper impurities.

 

ferric Chlorides also prodce this, so without a sample it`s difficult to determne

I tried to burn a very thin cord of copper with a candle, but after a while it just melted and didn't provide a green/blue flame.

make a spark using about 30V DC and using copper wire.... it turns out green... (just did it earlier today.)

i assume a similar thing happens if you place it in a flame, although sparks with copper wire is certainly green!

maybe try using an NST with copper leads, nice big green spark (i was using 30V so it wasnt that big).

maybe a tesla coil with copper toroid... would that work?

I tried to burn a very thin cord of copper with a candle, but after a while it just melted and didn't provide a green/blue flame.

make a spark using about 30V DC and using copper wire.... it turns out green... (just did it earlier today.)

i assume a similar thing happens if you place it in a flame, although sparks with copper wire is certainly green!

maybe try using an NST with copper leads, nice big green spark (i was using 30V so it wasnt that big).

maybe a tesla coil with copper toroid... would that work?

you CAN get blue from copper' date=' sure

 

but in a simple flame test, Green is the usual color due to impurities.

[/quote']

so green is normally what you get from a copper wire, but if you had pure Cu then it would appear blue?... (if so, i'll try that on monday.)

you CAN get blue from copper' date=' sure

 

but in a simple flame test, Green is the usual color due to impurities.

[/quote']

so green is normally what you get from a copper wire, but if you had pure Cu then it would appear blue?... (if so, i'll try that on monday.)

30V AC with thick, multi-strand wire creates a VERY bright green spark.

 

i say very as in it is brighter than a normal spark.

 

i got the 30V AC from a transformer a soldering iron uses! (measured it before i plugged it in!)