hydraliskdragon

Ask on a computer forum like Hardware.uk or .de or .com. People who overclock their CPU have such closed-cycle refrigerators, which can't be very expensive. They want seriously cold temperatures because CMOS components are faster at cold (record overclockers let them run at 77K+), and if your component heats less than 100-200W, the refrigerator will achieve a lower temperature than with a CPU.

They are more then just expensive. Some of the consumer phase coolers/closed cycle refrigerators are over 700 dollars. At that price, it'd be better to buy a pulse tube cyrocooler.

Achieving higher temperature has always been easier to obtain then achieving low temperature "One can simply use a easy to get torch lighter to easily go over 1000°C)

However without using consumables such as dry ice, it has been much more difficult for someone to achieve lower temperatures.

The only common items available to the consumers within the price range are usually a normal compression cycle refrigerator or the highly inefficient Thermoelectric Cooler (TEC)

Wanting to obtain temperatures low enough for a cloud chamber experiment and other low temperature experiments without using consumables such as dry ice or liquid nitrogen, has anyone had success strictly using inexpensive parts or easy to obtain materials?

TEC coolers can be used in a pyramid (stacked) configuration but because of it's inefficiency and the amount of heat produced by each element, it soon becomes unrealistic as the each stage would need an exponential amount of power to remove the heat generated by itself plus an the heat of each successive stages.

(Refrigerants can be different then the stock refrigerant to prevent it from freezing)

Is it possible to apply the same concept for the TEC for a compression cycle refrigerator? Two or more compression cycles attached to draw head out of the compression stages. Or if the thermostat of the refrigerator was modified greatly beyond it's range, how cold can a refrigerator possibly become?

(Pulse tube cry-coolers are not an option due to the cost)

If anyone is aware of any other methods of cheaply cooling to bellow -40°C *Without using consumables such as dry ice* please let me know.

regarding to this topic:

http://www.scienceforums.net/forum/showthread.php?t=40900

 

Why not over electrolysis of water? Isn't it enough hydrogen...?

 

I didn't want to split the other topic.. so thats why I am asking here!

Pure H2O is hardly conductive. Tap water contains trace minerals and elements which allow the water to be conductive. However electrolysis of tap water can create many different gases including hydrogen itself.

Since many chemical reactions use iodine, I was looking into making Iodine and stumbled across this thread http://www.scienceforums.net/forum/showthread.php?t=10886&highlight=Iodine.

Iodine tincture contains Iodide Ions which allow Iodine to dissolve readily in water. By passing though chlorine gas though the solution of tincture, we are able to oxidize the iodide back into iodine which is not very soluble in water.

Thus we end up with elemental iodine as a precipitate.

Here's a video of my synthesis.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-_1-p4paM4U&feature=channel_page

PS. Iodine stains everthing

Oestrogen !!!!!

I could see why.

Mood Swing ftw

I'll just name a few I've encountered.

-Chlorine (Pulmonary agents)

-Phosgene (Pulmonary agents)

-Hydrazine (Toxic)

-Bromoacetone (lachrymatory agent)

-Methyl ethyl ketone peroxide (organic peroxide)

and hydrogen cyanide.

I have a two decimal place scale, I will try this method and see what I get.

Thanks for the help.

I was thinking of calibrating the pipette by measuring 5mL of water in a graduated cylinder then sucking the fluid through my pipette and mark the bottom of the Meniscus as 5mL. Then continue doing with 10mL and 15mL and so on.

I know this is practically not possible but Aerogel?

Whoops, I meant to say aqueous ammonia not anhydrous ammonia

Wait, since some of you suggested in using pipette, would marking the pipette with calibrated mL lines work for titration so I could determine just how much titrant I used?

I've seen many varieties of burettes but the cheaper ones seems to be made of acrylic. About $19 to $25 USD without shipping.

I am eventually planning on buying a glass burette but since it will be much later, I thought that I need a substitute while that time comes.

I've been waiting to do titration with a standard solution of HCl to determine the concentration of anhydrous ammonia.

Would there be a substitute I could use without a Burette for accurate readings?

The one possible choice that I've figured was to manually drop the titrant from a beaker until endpoint but I'm not sure if it would be accurate enough.

Does anyone know of any other possible way's to carry out titration without a Burette and being as accurate as possible to a real Burette?

Thanks

PS. Burette's are too expensive for me to buy at this time and the concentration of HCl is 0.15 mol/L.

Assuming you mean the "black snakes," I find that its generally easier to make a mix of sugar, and baking soda. You then moisten the solution with ethanol, letting the ethanol dry a bit. You then apply a match. The baking soda (sodium bicarbonate) decomposes to produce water (sodium carbonate) and carbon dioxide, this pushes the reaction upwards.

 

2NaHCO3 > Na2CO3 + H2O + CO2

 

The molten sugar does not actively participate, but rather the molten sugar gives it form, as it charrs producing a black snake. Pretty neat. I'ld post pictures, but I have a minor problem with that, as you need to provide a URL. Is there any other way to upload photos? It be rteally useful for further posts.

You can use photobucket for the picture.

I am going to try your method since it seems to be very different from this reaction. I'm assuming that it's CO2 trapped bubbles that will raise the reaction upwards?

By the way, what can I do with the left over carbon?

oddly this is one experiment I have tried many times and never managed to get the same effect that everyone else does?

 

the acid it 98% reagent grade and the sugar is out the kitchen, and yet all I seem to get is a brown/black sludge with little steam

 

needless to say I gave it up after about 4 tries as a waste of good acid.

I've tried dehydrating powder sugar as well but ended up with a not very fast rising pillar of carbon. More like sludge.

After some thought, I believed that a catalyze for this dehydration would be needed into speeding up the rate of the reaction as well as producing a copious amount of heat and steam. In remembering that water reacts in a very exothermic reaction with sulfuric acid, I've decided to pour about 5ml of water. Immediately there was a spike in temperature and a black tower of carbon rose fast from the black sludge.

Here's a picture of the residual Carbon

Here's the video of the reaction.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QPpFt6ePly4&feature=channel_page

if you only need a small amount, strip down a few dead Zinc Carbon batteries, it`s a bit messy but it`s Free

and as a Bonus offer, you get a free Carbon electrode with each one!

Nice offer! I'll take it

Kind of reminded me of a breakfast commerial.

Hehe, ok a typo.

The cold finger method is a extremly cold surface above the distilate to instanly condense the gas.

Im planning to use the cold finger method on the distilate side.

Yes, I the hardware manager took me to the counter for teflon tape and there were four types of colour.

Anyways, should the distilation system be entirely self contained?

Since boiling liquids are involved, I am worried that my glasswares will shatter due to steam preesure.

First of, im planning to distill H2O2 to check for flaws and to see if all functions correctly. Then im planning to distill acid's and plant matter.

Should faintly reek like onion due to the detection orderant.

The rubber stopper is completely covered with a teflon tape.

I could see that this DNA Fiber Optic cable being the most flexible of its type.

Yet, the process of creating such cable would be very costly.

I am assuming that if there are easier ways to make this cable, it could possibly revolutionize the telecommunication. I even see some possible uses in human implanted fiber optic cable for many reasons.

I can recommend you two products.

1) A propane torch cup ignitor (Obtainable at hardware store)

2) Make a small 1 Joule Capacitor bank from a camera flash unit then have a Rotary Spark gap to cause the ignition.

It is not all that hard to obtain a piezo barbecue lighter. It would be less of a hassle to get this instead of all the other methods.

For my first spud gun, my fuel was a normal butane spray but now I switched to propane gas with oxygen enrichment. Do Not Use MAPP gas as the high Acetylene content of the fuel could result in a dangerous explosion.

Well, I figured it was nitrogen oxide a long time ago but was unsure why so much was produced at this stage.

Also, couldn't I simply use a liebig condenser?

Would a bath of ice and acetone in a Cold Finger condenser be suffice for the condensation?

I am very sorry to be digging up such an old thread but some question needed to be answered.

I have tried making Nitric Acid by the method of KNO3 + H2SO4 = KHSO4 + HNO3

Is this procedure correct?

1) Boil the H2SO4 + KNO3 solution to HNO3's boiling point 83 °C

2) Bubble this gas into Distilled H2O

3) Keep the condenser unit running and keep the distillate under ice bath.

Also, when doing this distillation, instead of getting yellowish orange fumes, I get a very heavy orange to brown fumes that mask inside my flask. Here's a picture of it bellow.

Thanks,

Tim

I obtained a 3.5 feet long flint glass tube and an erlenmeyer flask to use as a distillation apparatus.

The Teflon tape wraps the rubber stopper since that distilling acid's can dissolve the rubber.

I used my LPG (Liquid Propane Torch) to bend the flint glass tube while blowing into it sightly to avoid closure of the tube and not too hard as to pop open the tube.

I have yet to set up a proper condenser unit on my apparatus but will be working on it soon.