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Everything posted by xeluc

  1. So if I understand you guys correctly... 10 Ohm resistors in parallel would give me amperages in steps of .5 amps, up to 3.5.? If I had those resistors in my 12 volt, 2.8 amp line, does that mean 10 ohm resistors in parallel would give me up to 2.4 amps? This whole thing with resistors confuses me. The equation V=IR would say adding more resistors would increase voltage, not current. Maybe this has to do with them being parallel instead of in series. Should I be using my 5 volt 3.8 amp wire or my 12 volt 2.8 amp wire? Also, If I connect multiple 5 volt 3.8 amp wires together with sufficient neg and pos wires to equal out, will my amperage or voltage increase. Is this safe?? I have one resistor in the line right now.. The persons powersupply on the webpage you gave me also only has one? So... Is this wrong? Also Woelen. I finally understand what your talking to with your resistor thing, to a degree. when you have like RR//RR//RR I don't understand how you calculate THAT. Also, when you take RRR//RRR and do the (x*y)/(x+y), you get 1.5 . However the resistance is 1.5 Ohms. I did the same with RR//RRR. I got 1.2 but the ohms are 12. So do I just multiply by 10? SO anyohw... yes.. Thanks to whoever helps me
  2. Hm. I don't understand most of what you said Woelen. However, I remembered last summer i bought a Windows 3.1 computer at a garage sale for $5. So I gutted the power supply. I wentto radio shack and bought alligator clips (I've needed those FOREVER) and a 10 Watt 10 Ohm resistor. I hooked it up to the 5 Volt 3.8 Ampere? Wire. This power supply has lasted 48 hours of continuous operation and that's a record. I will regard my problem with psu's dieing solved. Now for some manipulation. My father has a volt meter so I will be using that to see evactly what im pulling form it. SO let me see if I got this straight. Ignoring losses from the wires and the actualy operation or electrolysis. With a 10 Ohm resistor, is my theoretical 3.8 amps turned into .38? If so, that SUCKS. Thats no different form my little wall plug in Power supply. Does this mean that I would need to make a transformer to raise the amperage? I know how to do it and have actually wanted to, but... this power supply is already like a freaking foot long (not exagerating). Ahem... Anyhow.... Thanks for all your help so far. Any New Ideas?
  3. dude... if this rock is granite and as big as i think.. its not GONNA break without sounding lie ka small bomb went off.. sorry... I liek the agression party idea.. id DEFINATLY take a wack at it..
  4. No its not purely blue. Theres a light blue light precipitate and a greenish more compact precipitate.... Maybe thats the carbonate... Its in solutiopn still.. im gettign rid of the carbonate ions by decanting... if the green is carbonate than it looks like i can get a decently pure sample of carbonate since the hydroxide floats arounbd more..
  5. I like the PC Power supply route So jsut using the wires I want with diodes.. will it last or do I need to add a resister or something.
  6. catalyst... no... The CaCl2 plays no part in any reaction. you do not mix the FeCl3 and CaCl2.. You keep them seperate and the CaCl2 sucks out the water throguh the air.. But I do beleive the CaCl2 is reusable, jsut heat it up to let go of the water.
  7. from what I can tell, it's the middle school-sometiems high school retards who get info from places like totse and use the anarchist cookbook. Basicly, they are interested in large explosions, not chemistry as we are. And since they have no real knoledge or drive to learn knoledge of chemistry, as Woelen said, they are likely to blow something off. That's what I think the definition is anyway..
  8. Yes, you already explained how to make FeCl3.6H2O in your first post. Letting it evaporate works kind of. FeCl3 is EXTREMLY hygroscopic. I havn't been able to get a dry compound by evaporation. Dessicants such as CaCl2 which can be found in any hardware store as painter's dessicant would be the way to go. Get a large jar, fill with CaCl2, set a dish of FeCl3 solution on top, seal, and wait. Heating may be possible, but I'm not sure how stable FeCl3 is.
  9. One of my science teachers wanted me to synthesize a lot of copper compounds to show the color variety form one element and I went to synthesize Copper Carbonate via electrolysis. I looked for the msds for Copper Carbonate and for the formula it gives me CuCO3 Cu(OH)2 . So why is Hydroxide mixed in there? Is it impossible to synthesize pure CuCO3? More importantly, Did I synthesize this Copper Carbonate basic or jsut Cu(OH)2? Specs. Copper anode/cathode. 2 beakers with salt bridge NaHCO3 solution. 12 Votls... I have a bright blue precipitate.
  10. I as thinking of using a battery charger but I think the one I have now has some kind of swithc off or something becasue I quickly threw steel wool on both clamps and put it in salt water whiel plugged in and nothing happened. Shoud lI have it on a specific setting?
  11. @YT: Eww, looks liek it all oxidized. I tried to crystalize some FeCl2 but I added too much water and after heating, all of the FeCl2 stayes in solution. Of course now its yellow FeCl2-. I have noticed that the nasty brown stuff accumulates very slowly AND it is easy to get out of solution. I have found that shaking the lot a whoel lot and waiting for the FeCl2 to fall down, but the brown hydroxide, or whatever complex chemical Woelen called it stays in the water for a much much longer time. Just shake it up and decant, I forget is FeCl2 is soluble in acitone (I do not beleive so) but adding some of that in and shaking will get the rest of the brown stuff out. I Just disolved off the (probably) zinc coating from a screw and threw it in HCl. I could find little impurities (certainly nothing I'd care about). Eventually (as you know) Crystals form. I've done all of this without filtering as the screw is large enough to be removed form the test tube. Man, I got to stop with the parenthesis. I wouldn't leave the solution in a heater.. It's really hard to evaporate the FeCl2 solution in a heather without oxidizing it, although I'm sure it's possible. I was going to do something of the liek with CuCl but I havn't gotten a chance to yet as I do not have a suitable container. Just heat it in a test tube to disolve crystals and they should reform larger. I just thought to myself that I am being a little elementary here. So sorry if I have insulted your intelligence YT ;-) @Woelen: Well, I have some more solution in a petri dish to oxidize. I'm doing it in a smaller vessle so I don't have to use as much. I will include a "size-key" or whatever so that you can see approximate crystal sizes. Right now the solution is brown (I poured a solution of CuCl2- into a dish) In a day or so it should turn green. I will let you know when I'm finished. The very large color change of anhydroud CuCl2 as oposed to hydrated was actually one of the reasons that CuCl2 was the first chemical I decided to synthesize. I have done this very crudely before. The first time I made it last sumer and I whined becase it was a light green color, not blue, was because I boiled the solution . I got anhydrous CuCl2 alright. Probably lots of Hypochlorite too... Anyhow, it never occured to me to do experiemtns with anhydrous CuCl2. I'll get on that.
  12. Well, I now have my crystals in a holding container douh. Most of the crystal structure is gone but I DO plan on making more of these crystals. CuCl2 seems to be a VERY often used chemical for me. I'm glad to have found a way to make pure crystals of it. Yes, the camera has a macro feature but I never thought to use it. Obviously the picture would have turned out better. These crystals realyl WERE stunning. Sadly, most of them are broken now but after school tomorrow I'll definastly take a better picture of what I have for you. If your still interested in a week or so, I will do another batch. I encourage you to do this yourself though, The structure is pretty neat.
  13. thing is, I have also been told that 12 volts is waay to much. they recomend 2-3 for most things... I think a higher voltage would sometimes create more O2 production which destroys carbon electrodes.
  14. I'm very interested in electrochemistry and I believe that I can learn a lot from it, but I can't even get it to work for more than a few hours. So far, I just have been using wall outlet power supplies designed to supply power to phones or what ever. These are rated 9-12 volts and 300 mA. I understand a higher amperage would be more efficient, but the power supplies heat up quickly and eventually die. This is apparently because the power supply is almost shorting out or something. Maybe... Anyhow, I'm ready to invest some money into this hobby as it has become to me, so what can I do about getting something that would stand up to what I am doing? Of course, my Dairy Queen paychecks don't supply me with huge amounts of capital, so something of moderat cost would be nice. I just don't know where to look really. What have you guys done?
  15. Haha.. The largest crystals are ~1mm thick and 1-2 cm long.
  16. Well, my crystals are done drying. I coudln't get a clear picture like you and I was using a Minolta camera.. Anyway, you can kind of make out the crystal structure here. The color of the crystals is a light blue, it's a little darker in the picture
  17. When you boil the FeCl3, it heats up and hydrolyzes. Meaning, a water molecule's hydroxide ion is taken by the Iron. Fe3+ + 3Cl- + 3H2O --> Fe(OH)3 + 3H+ + 3Cl- The hydroxide darkens the liquid. If you evaporate the solution with a dessicant such as Calcium Chloride, you will find that your solution stays more pure.
  18. To answer your question, that choking gas was HCl vapor. HCl at such high concentrations fumes readily, this can be dangerous. Look at the reaction between a metal and HCl, imagine what it does when you breathe a lot of it in. Obviously not good for you. I would suggest using a fume hood or doing these experiemtns outside to avoid vapor build up. Also, keep in mind that all the HCl gas in the room will corrode most anything. In my room I did some experiments and the quarters i had in my room were shiny on the surface touching the table, but the side fasing the air was corroded @Akcapr, sorry I wasn't fixing your answer, you just got to it before me
  19. All of my Iron (III) Chloride solution have always been yellow. This is the correct color. Either Iron Chloride can be brown also, or it is caused by impurities such as Oxide, Hydroxide. Regardless, you have done nothing wrong.
  20. That is VERY neat. How did you get your crystals in such a mass? Mine are about 1/2 the size of standard NaCl crustals. They are very fine. (I'll have my CuCl2 for you to look at next week (My room is colder than I'd like for evaporation purposes, but nicer crystals can be made))
  21. @YT. I will do the same with some of my sample. I have magnesium ribbon finally and this seems ot be a decent way of getting pure iron. @Woelen: Good idea with the decanting the solution of my CuCl2. Unfortunatly, I still have a good 50 mL un evaporated, so I'll wait a few days and then decant. I don't have acetone at the moment so I will do that later I beleive my precipitate is crystaline, when shaken, al precipitate falls back down and makes a clear yelow liquid in less than 30 seconds. This leads me ot beleive that there is a large partical size (also looks that way) and therefore it must be crystaline.
  22. Good Call on the Crystals, that'd make sense. I still have some liquid left in my tub of CuCl2. I know that it becomes pure because I set aside smaller amounts to crystalize and they showed promise. It may be another week before my large tub evaporates, but I will let you know when this happens. I threw a screw that I had in acid already prevoiusly to get rid of any coating. After Putting in a test tube with HCl, The Fe2O3 layer melted off (this was actually kind of neat) and the solution turned yellow. All at once it bubbled decently quickly and eventually the solution turned clear and then light green. I left it to react over night and even though the reaction vessel was loosely capped, the solution is now back to yellow. I also have a decent amount of whitish precipitate on the bottom, but no floaty crap! This seems to be a lot more pure than the scrubby stuff. So it looks like the white stuff is my FeCl2. As a side note, it amazes me at the difference in composition of two "iron"s It would make sense, because the scrubby iron needs to be very bendable without breaking. Iron itself would not fulfill this purpose. So the dark green liquid, white floaty precipitate are apparently added metals to increase tensile strength. Also, is my precipitate of FeCl2 decently pure? You talk about Fe3+ hydrolysing on your website. Your website gives me the impression that FeCl2 is decently Stable under neutral conditions. If I washed the precipitate in a liquid insoluble by FeCl2 and then added distilled water to disolve the FeCl2, colul I then crystalize it leaving the other crap behind? Or would this ALSO oxidize.
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